see our other posts on buying vintage bows:
http://shakespearearchery.blogspot.com/2014/04/the-most-popular-shakespeare-bows.html
How to Buy and Sell Vintage Bows, Avoiding Bad Bows, Bad Buyers, and Worse Sellers
Before You Buy Any Bow Please Consider:
http://shakespearearchery.blogspot.com/2014/04/the-most-popular-shakespeare-bows.html
How to Buy and Sell Vintage Bows, Avoiding Bad Bows, Bad Buyers, and Worse Sellers
by
Larry Vienneau
Before You Buy Any Bow Please Consider:
- There has been a surge of interest in archery in the last couple of years due to movies like "The Hunger Games" and television shows such as “Arrow”. These have helped ignite new interest in the sport of archery. They have also contributed to the rise in prices for vintage bows. So for a while prices will be high so be prepared to spend a bit more money.
- Where to look? Some excellent archery forums have trading or classified pages. I have had great luck finding some nice equipment with many of these sites:
- www.archerytalk.com
- www.tradtalk.com
- www.tradgang.com
- www.tradrag.com
- http://leatherwall.bowsite.com
- www.stickbow.com
Craig's List is another great resource too but there are obvious risks. The undisputed king of auctions is eBay. There are some advantages and disadvantages to eBay. EBay rates buyers and sellers pretty well. But there is no forum to rate interacting with members. While a seller may be polite to a buyer, he might not be polite to someone commenting or offering knowledge to a seller. Most sellers appreciate the help but some do not. EBay has no way of policing bad behavior so be warned. A seller with 100% ratings may be the worst seller on eBay because of his or her arrogant attitude. EBay sellers are overwhelmingly excellent and honest people, but you do meet that small percentage who are awful. - Condition is a main contributor to a bow’s price.
- A mint bow means flawless, either unused or completely free of any sign of
wear. Some sellers use the term "near mint" liberally but it is misleading, it is either mint or it isn't. Mint means unused or rarely used. It should be in the original condition as when it came out of the box!! A truly mint bow with a perfect arrow rest is rare and deserves a high
price.
A bow in pristine or excellent condition will have some very minor scuffs or scratches. It will have its original rest material. It will have the original factory finish.A very good bow (well used) should be free of twisted limbs or heavy stress cracks but may have an arrow rest replacement and it needs some refinishing. Most bows fall into this category. A refinished bow falls into this category. Always disclose when a bow has been refinished!A Good Bow (well used) may have some mild limb twist but is a reliable safe bow to shoot. It will need a new rest and string. It may also need some refinishing. Most bows also fall into this category.Poor or “as is” is a bow that has heavy stress cracks, limb twists, poor finish, and other damage. A bow with a cracked riser or laminate separation should be sold “as is”. These bows should be refurbished by an experienced person or sold as wall hangers.. http://reviews.ebay.com/Vintage-Archery-Equipment-amp-the-Mint-Rating?ugid=10000000001822092
- Do your research and compare prices. Learn as much as you can about vintage bows before you bid. I suggest: Rick Rappe's books VINTAGE BOWS 1,2,& 3.
- http://www.amazon.com/Vintage-Bows-Introduction-Choosing-Collecting/dp/1458372138 and http://www.amazon.com/books/dp/1105729974 and http://www.lulu.com/us/en/shop/rick-rappe/vintage-bows-ii/paperback/product-20247920.html
- Vintage Bows III- http://www.lulu.com/shop/rick-rappe/vintage-bows-iii/ebook/product-21435364.html
- If you are using an auction site visit “completed Listings” to see what other bows have gone for in past auctions. Use possible misspelling searches. I have found many nice “Recuve Boes”, I recently bought a “Shakespeare Wunderbow”, a recent "Shakespeare Vintage Recure" sold for $50....and it was beautiful!!! The misspelled items turn up less in searches and usually have fewer bids. Be patient, and bid wisely.
- PRICES. This is the most popular question "What is it worth?" EBay has a wide range of pricing. There are several high-end sellers, offering excellent quality bows. Most ask for fair prices but some are greedy, do your research. Do not be duped into paying an exorbitant price based on some online inflationary calculator gimmick (one overpriced eBay dealer actually uses this to justify his prices- http://www.dollartimes.com/calculators/inflation.htm/) Condition and collector demand fuel pricing. Check completed auctions for bows, it will give you an idea of pricing. Research the going price for both mint and well-used bows you might be interested in. If you look at past sales for Shakespeare / Root bows the price range is $40 - $235 depending on the model rarity and condition. Bear Bow demands a higher price range $75 - $500, and a few much higher. Watch out for overpriced bows -do your homework before you bid!!
- DON'T BE GREEDY - this applies to both buyers and sellers!! Over the past month, I have been reporting a Chinese seller who took a completed eBay listing and re-posted it with a selling price of 1/10th of the actual value. this seller simply moved the decimal over so that a $195.00 bow would sell for $19.50ish. He also used "Buy it now" and free shipping to entice a victim. this seller used multiple accounts but all had "0" feedback. I had nearly 1000 of his listings removed over a month. Don't be a greedy buyer. Be careful and think. If something seems too good to be true...it is usually a scam.
- Ask questions. Some sellers on sites like eBay are not knowledgeable so you will need to ask them questions about the bow. Ask about the bow length condition, make, and model, whether is it RH or LH, and most importantly ask for good photos. Many sellers can't tell right-hand from left. Some don't even know how to string the bow correctly, like this fellow shooting his bow strung backward. Sometimes ignorant sellers can be belligerent. So ask your questions politely, if they get angry, pass on the bow and the seller. I wrote a page on the right hand vs Left hand-
- http://shakespearearchery.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_24.html
some sellers string the bow backward and list it incorrectly as a left-hand bow when it is actually right-handed - I can’t count how many poor descriptions and photos I have seen on auction sites. here is the 3 Rivers Archery YouTube video on bow dexterity:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4pHS_4EU7g
- Private Listings: I strongly recommend using caution with auction-style listings that indicate "private listing - bidders' identities protected” 99.9% of sellers are honest however some are using private listings to cover Shill bidding (illegal bids designed to raise the final auction price). The identity of a bidder is protected by eBay so there is little value in protecting a listing for a “Buy it Now” listing however some sellers use it to limit information about what they sell and to whom. This is permitted by eBay; however, some sellers use it to mask sales.
- Normal wear and scratches are not a problem. If you want to refinish your bow you should put a couple layers of masking tape over any logos, medallions, or markings that can identify your bow. I am not fussy about taping because I usually try to lightly sand the taped area when I am ready to refinish. Don’t use a harsh chemical paint remover. I prefer CITRISTRIP a non-hazardous water-soluble stripper. It takes a bit longer, but it won’t damage the bow glues. Use a stripper after wash and then a couple times with a damp cloth. Sand with a rough grit if needed but I usually start with 220, then 400, 600 then triple 000 steel wool. Avoid too much sanding on the surface of the fiberglass. Super glue is a good filler for nasty scratches and it can be sanded. I recommend a spray spar varnish in satin, semi-gloss, or gloss depending on your bow, it is always good to match the original finish. To polish a bows finish try this: http://www.ebay.com/sch/bowdocs/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686 For bow refinishing I Recommend- http://www.classicbows.net/ This is Rick Rappe author of Vintage Bows 1 & II email: yorktown5@comcast.net
- you will be in good hands.
Here are a couple more restorers:http://www.bowhospital.com/Contact_Information.html and http://droptinetraditions.com/php/ Remember, some twisted limbs can be untwisted; a few de-laminations may be re-glued, but most cracked riser is unfixable. - And of course there is BowDoc: BowdocsARCHERY@comcast.net
- a hairline fracture can be fixed by an experienced bowyer. here is a good link to read about riser repair. http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=print_topic;f=14;t=005999
- The bow should fit you- taller archers (5’10 inch or taller) may have a 31”+ draw length and should look for a longer bow length: 64" or longer. Shorter archers (5’ 9 or shorter) may have a 28-inch draw length and should find most bows comfortable.
- Don’t be macho, DO NOT buy a bow that is too powerful for you, better under-weighted than over-bowed. Your back muscles are important in the execution of a proper archery shot. These muscles are often underdeveloped in non-archers. An average man should be looking for a 40-45# bow at your draw length, a slender woman or teen should be using a 25-35# bow
- Be sure you have the correct bowstring. Many vintage deals come with old worn-out strings. Throw it out and get a new one. If you get a vintage bow make sure you stay away from fast flight strings because they can destroy your bow, get a B50 Dacron - string, and make sure you tell the merchant it is for a vintage bow. Your string needs to be 4 inches shorter than the bow length from nock to nock (AMO). For example, a 60-inch bow needs a string that is 56 inches. Most importantly NO FAST FLIGHT STRINGS for vintage bows
- I recommend an instructional DVD to give you a proper start in bow selection, bow set-up, arrow tuning, and, most importantly, how to shoot correctly. There are also plenty of online resources to help as well. YouTube is a great resource for watching the correct shooting form.http://www.youtube.com/user/Greyarcher1 browse his "School of Archery" He also has good videos on techniques and other helpful advice.
Bow racks for 4, 8, and 16 traditional bows by Jerry Coulter |
Bow Displays –
Space Saving Design by Jerry Coulter
These Jerry Coulter handmade pine bow racks are made specifically for
traditional bows and can hold 16 unstrung (unstrung) bows, 8 bow
socks, and 6 arrows, all at once. The
bow is hung by sliding the bowstring behind the peg so that the peg is between
the bow and the bowstring.
These bow racks are only 27 inches wide, so they won't take
all your wall space, and can be attached to the wall with their mounting holes
spread 16 inches apart, made to work with most wall studs (mounting screws and
wood cover buttons included). 16 bow rack:http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-bow-traditional-archery-bow-rack-/110722714955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c7968d4b
8 bow rack:http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-bow-traditional-archery-bow-rack-/110633717474?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c2488ee2
4 bow rack:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traditional-bow-racks-4-bow-/110971379321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d668de79
You can email Jerry directly: jerryccoulter@gmail.com
Avoiding Bad Bows and Even Worse Sellers
Examples of What to Avoid
*Avoid Overpriced Bows and Arrogant, Rude Sellers
*a bad seller is someone who does not answer emails
*a bad seller is someone who does not answer emails
*a bad seller is someone who is not honest about an item.
*a bad seller uses deceiving or confusing descriptions
*a bad seller uses profanity or insults in answering a question.
*a bad seller is a bully
*go to one of the many archery forums, they often have lists of sellers who have bad reputations
*and leave the appropriate feedback. To add to the feedback you may have already left for a poor seller go to the:
Click “Follow up to Feedback left” There is also a link on that page to change feedback.
*and leave the appropriate feedback. To add to the feedback you may have already left for a poor seller go to the:
Click “Follow up to Feedback left” There is also a link on that page to change feedback.
POOR PHOTO AND DESCRIPTION
Hoyt Gamemaster
recurve bow
starting price $299
“Item specifics Condition:
Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may
have some signs of cosmetic wear but is fully operational and functions as
intended. This item may be a floor model
or store return that has been used.
Brand: Hoyt
Model: gamemaster
Description: Hoyt
Gamemaster is taken down with removable limbs. 50lb limbs. Recurve”
This could be an
excellent bow but the seller has posted one very poor photo and
description. From the Item specs, it is
pretty clear that the seller knows very little about the bow. Nothing is posted
about how old the bow is, what the AMO is, the width of limbs, color, or anything
that will give the buyer an accurate idea of why this bow warrants a $299
starting bid with a reserve!!
Avoid items that have
extremely short descriptions combined with a bad photo!
DAMAGE OVERPRICED BOW
Vintage Shakespeare
Archery Recurve Bow -The Sierra Model X 18 Price $129
50 1/2" total length
“This is a vintage bow there are some knicks here and there.
No cracking or separation.
It has a twist to it, probably from leaving string
on.
It does not come with string.
I am no expert, I
have given the information to the best of what I see and know in the
description. Because every person will
have their own expectations I ask that if you have any questions email to ask before placing your bid. Your bid
represents what you feel is a fair price
for the item being sold in the auction.”
I contacted this
seller and asked about the condition of the bow and the draw weight. I suggest that the asking price might be a
bit too high on the bow. From the photos, it is easy to see that this bow is in
deplorable condition and is NOT worth the asking price of $129. The bow is filthy, the finish is badly scratched
and it has a limb twist!! The seller's response was “I don’t think this is the
right bow for you” REALLY???
And she never answered
any of my questions about the bow.
If you see a similar bow with the words -"I am no expert, It has a twist to it." Run away or Ask lots of questions!!!!!
If you see a similar bow with the words -"I am no expert, It has a twist to it." Run away or Ask lots of questions!!!!!
UNDER-EMPHASIS OF THE PROBLEM
Vintage TRI-STATE
JAGUAR RECURVE BOW Wood & Laminated Limbs 41# 70" LJD-113
Price -$ 297.77
"Vintage
archery bow
'Jaguar
model' Hunting or Archery, Tri-state Archery Corporation, Danbury,
ct.
41
# lb pull/draw
70"
recurve
Wood
& Owens Permaglass
Good
condition & usable with no structural defects [see pictures for cosmetic
details]. The light bow weighs approx: 1 lb. 13 oz. Unisex and light enough pull for older
children. No string with this bow. Your local archery shop will take off this. Used
but not abused. Mostly varnish wear that tlc and slight refinish will correct
or just leave alone. We
leave all patina alone for the buyer's discretion."
The
seller has done a good job with the description but has under-emphasized the condition of the varnish. It needs more
than TLC, it needs a complete refinishing! For the price of $297.77, a buyer should be
getting a bow in excellent condition. This is a type of bow that should be
passed over unless you are experienced in bow restoration.
POOR DESCRIPTION
VINTAGE DAMON HOWATT
HUNTER WOODEN BOW MARKED HH 4340
Price $480 or the best
offer
“Item specifics Condition:
Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may
have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully Branded: DAMON HOWATT
Overall Bow Length: 56 ½”
Vintage Damon Howatt hunter wooden bow 56 1/2" bow
marked hh 4340 69@ 28" what looks like am o 62". Beautiful with
inlaid design. Very nice.”
For a great bow with a very high asking price, this is a very poor description
The description tells
us very little about the condition of the bow.
1. What is the condition of the string?
2. Is there any laminate separation?
3. Is there any limb twist?
4. What is cosmetic wear?
5. How has this bow been stored?
6. How old is the bow?
7. The bow is strung backward!!!
7. The bow is strung backward!!!
This is a great
example of an auction item that demands questions from the seller.
Do not bid until you know everything.
Do not bid until you know everything.
A MISLEADING SELLER
Shakespeare Wonderbow M 24 Recurve Bow
Item specifics: Condition: For
parts or not working. Seller Notes: “Vintage well used”
Description:
“This is an estate sale find. We simply buy and sell. We do
not shoot and do not know if this works or is only good as wall art, We do not
know if this has all the required parts or pieces. This is how we found it.
This is a used item in used condition with signs of age usage wear marks fading
etc. This item is offered as shown as found no warranty no refunds and no
returns. If you do not see it we do not have it. If you find a problem you must
fix it.”
I have dealt with this
seller. This is the archetype of a seller to avoid. He has multiple auction
accounts, avoid answering emails, posts poor photos, posts intentionally poor description, and
loads the descriptions with disclaimers. This is the response you can expect from him if you have a question: "We're sorry we couldn't find an answer for you. Unfortunately, this seller is not able to respond to your question. We suggest reviewing the item again to see if your answer is in the seller's listing."
Always read every item spec. and descriptions, sometimes they tell you
more about the seller than they do about the bow!!!!
AVOID A BAD BOW!
I contacted this seller to warn about this bow. It is one of the worst I have seen in years. The crack in the riser is dangerous and unrepairable. He wants $149 which is high for this bow in excellent condition. Instead of removing the listing, dropping the price, or re-writing a correction, he changed the condition from "Good" to "Used"
AND THE AWARD FOR THE WORST PHOTO.....
VINTAGE MID 60s
SHAKESPEARE WONDERBOW X17-62 RECURVE BOW 62" 45#
$20.00 I bid
Description: "Up for auction a
VINTAGE MID-60s SHAKESPEARE WONDERBOW
X17-62 RECURVE BOW 62" 45#.
This is a fiberglass bow. It shows some fading but looks to be in good
condition." What else can I say? I think the photo and description say it all!!!
HOW TO SELL A VINTAGE BOW AND HAVE FUN DOING IT!!
1. RESEARCH YOUR BOW: Learn as much as you can about vintage bows before you offer your bow for sale. I suggest: Rick Rappe's books VINTAGE BOWS 1,2, & 3
http://www.ebay.com/sch/yorktown5/m.html?item=220760595183&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l4064
Use online sources to aid you with your description and to help you assess the value of your bow. Go onto auction sites and look at past auctions. The biggest mistake sellers make is they see a patent date like on a Bear bow which has a date of 1953 and assume that the bow is 1953 when the bow may be from the 1970s. Posting that you are selling 1953 is unintentionally misleading!! do your homework!!! Many sellers can't even tell a right-hand bow from a lefty.
I wrote a page on this: http://shakespearearchery.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_24.html
If you are still unsure go to this 3 Rivers Archery Video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4pHS_4EU7g
2. Pricing Your Bow: Do not price according to emotional attachment. If you are selling your father's vintage bow, do not ask for a price that is too high for your bow. Do a search for your bow in "past auctions" on eBay and you will get an idea of what your bow is worth. If it has sold for far less than you want for your bow, then you need to decide if you really want to sell it. DO NOT use gimmicks to price your bow. One overpriced seller sets his prices according to an online inflation calculator, this is not the best or most accurate tool to find the correct price.http://www.dollartimes.com/calculators/inflation.htm/ The price is set according to condition, Model or maker, year, weight, dexterity, and price in past auctions.
3. TAKE GOOD PHOTOGRAPHS; Take time to light the bow properly. It is best not to use a flash or direct sunlight. Use indirect sunlight if possible. Compose the photo and remove any distractions from the background (old socks, toys, the dog, or your feet!!!)
Spend a few minutes making sure that the photos are oriented correctly, and use simple editing tools to crop the photos or adjust the contrast. If you don’t know how to edit, take the time to learn, it does help sell a bow. If your photos convey quality then the bow conveys quality too. I have written a guide to photographing vintage bows- http://shakespearearchery.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_30.html
http://www.ebay.com/sch/yorktown5/m.html?item=220760595183&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l4064
Use online sources to aid you with your description and to help you assess the value of your bow. Go onto auction sites and look at past auctions. The biggest mistake sellers make is they see a patent date like on a Bear bow which has a date of 1953 and assume that the bow is 1953 when the bow may be from the 1970s. Posting that you are selling 1953 is unintentionally misleading!! do your homework!!! Many sellers can't even tell a right-hand bow from a lefty.
I wrote a page on this: http://shakespearearchery.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_24.html
If you are still unsure go to this 3 Rivers Archery Video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4pHS_4EU7g
2. Pricing Your Bow: Do not price according to emotional attachment. If you are selling your father's vintage bow, do not ask for a price that is too high for your bow. Do a search for your bow in "past auctions" on eBay and you will get an idea of what your bow is worth. If it has sold for far less than you want for your bow, then you need to decide if you really want to sell it. DO NOT use gimmicks to price your bow. One overpriced seller sets his prices according to an online inflation calculator, this is not the best or most accurate tool to find the correct price.http://www.dollartimes.com/calculators/inflation.htm/ The price is set according to condition, Model or maker, year, weight, dexterity, and price in past auctions.
3. TAKE GOOD PHOTOGRAPHS; Take time to light the bow properly. It is best not to use a flash or direct sunlight. Use indirect sunlight if possible. Compose the photo and remove any distractions from the background (old socks, toys, the dog, or your feet!!!)
select a plain background, this one is too busy
the bow is completely lost in the rug pattern
|
Get your ugly feet out of your photo |
editing removes Ugly Feet |
don't be lazy, turn your photo!! |
Spend a few minutes making sure that the photos are oriented correctly, and use simple editing tools to crop the photos or adjust the contrast. If you don’t know how to edit, take the time to learn, it does help sell a bow. If your photos convey quality then the bow conveys quality too. I have written a guide to photographing vintage bows- http://shakespearearchery.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_30.html
4. BE COMPLETELY TRUTHFUL:
If there is a problem with the bow let the potential
buyer know. DO NOT skirt the problem by not photographing the problem or
not
describing the problem. The buyer should know everything
when they
are buying versus opening the bow only to find a bow with undisclosed
problems.
There is nothing worse than an angry buyer. I bought a bow that was described as straight and it was not. If you have a twist in the
limbs..say it!!
a twisted limb! |
5.
Mint, excellent, very good, and well used, and poor ratings.
Condition is a main contributor to a bow’s price. Mint, pristine, or bows in excellent condition fetch more money, well-used bows with ding and scratches will cost less. Do not use the term "near mint"- it is either mint or it isn't mint. A good analogy is a Mint Coin or Stamp- Mint means perfect. Some Collectors prefer an item as close to perfect as possible while others, like me, enjoy bow battle scars which may need some renovation. Some sellers use the term "near mint" liberally when describing their bows. Do not use "near mint" in your descriptions.
Condition is a main contributor to a bow’s price. Mint, pristine, or bows in excellent condition fetch more money, well-used bows with ding and scratches will cost less. Do not use the term "near mint"- it is either mint or it isn't mint. A good analogy is a Mint Coin or Stamp- Mint means perfect. Some Collectors prefer an item as close to perfect as possible while others, like me, enjoy bow battle scars which may need some renovation. Some sellers use the term "near mint" liberally when describing their bows. Do not use "near mint" in your descriptions.
A mint bow means flawless, either unused or completely free of any sign of
wear. A truly mint bow with a perfect arrow rest is rare and deserves a high
price. A mint bow should look as if it just came out of the box - new
A
bow in pristine or excellent condition will have
some very minor scuffs
or scratches. It should have the original factory finish AND the original
arrow rest and strike plate. It should have no or very minor stress
cracks.
A very good bow (used) should be free of twisted limbs or heavy stress
cracks but may have an arrow rest replacement and it needs some refinishing. Most
bows fall into this category. A refinished bow falls into this category. Always
disclose when a bow has been refinished!
A Good Bow (well used) may have some mild limb twist but is a reliably safe
bow to shoot. It will need a new rest and string. It may also need some refinishing.
Most bows also fall into this category.
Poor or “as is” is a bow that has heavy stress cracks, limb twists, poor finish, and
other damage. A bow with a cracked riser or laminate separation should be
sold “as is”. These bows should be refurbished by an experienced person or sold
as wall hangers.
6.
Write short and accurately.
I hate finding a nice auction item and then having the auction version of “WAR and PEACE”. I cut and pasted one long-winded seller's description and did a word count - over 2000 words- too long!!! Write interesting and accurate descriptions but don’t tell your life story!! Give the buyer good dependable information about the bow. If you don’t know much about the bow do some research and find out approximately what year the bow is, or something that the buyer will find helpful.
I hate finding a nice auction item and then having the auction version of “WAR and PEACE”. I cut and pasted one long-winded seller's description and did a word count - over 2000 words- too long!!! Write interesting and accurate descriptions but don’t tell your life story!! Give the buyer good dependable information about the bow. If you don’t know much about the bow do some research and find out approximately what year the bow is, or something that the buyer will find helpful.
7.
Dealing with Buyers:
be polite. Answers questions quickly and as accurately as possible. Make sure you have accurately described your item, keeping in mind that some buyers don’t read descriptions. If someone has a complaint you can cite where it was described in your item description. Assume that most buyers are novices and explain archery terminology carefully. There are some bad buyers out there! Protect yourself. Make sure you are as polite as possible, do not get angry but be assertive if needed. Absolutely no foul language. If there is ever a buyer/seller dispute your demeanor will be evaluated when the auction house makes a dispute settlement. Remember a seller should be as accurate and honest as possible, a buyer should read a description BEFORE bidding.
be polite. Answers questions quickly and as accurately as possible. Make sure you have accurately described your item, keeping in mind that some buyers don’t read descriptions. If someone has a complaint you can cite where it was described in your item description. Assume that most buyers are novices and explain archery terminology carefully. There are some bad buyers out there! Protect yourself. Make sure you are as polite as possible, do not get angry but be assertive if needed. Absolutely no foul language. If there is ever a buyer/seller dispute your demeanor will be evaluated when the auction house makes a dispute settlement. Remember a seller should be as accurate and honest as possible, a buyer should read a description BEFORE bidding.
8.
Packing and shipping:
do a good job! Don’t tape together a box throw the bow in and ship it unprotected. Have a box ready to use and then pack the bow well. Let the buyer know when it has been shipped. Ship as quickly as possible. If you can’t get the bow out in a reasonable amount of time, let the buyer know that there has been a delay. Most buyers are very understanding.
do a good job! Don’t tape together a box throw the bow in and ship it unprotected. Have a box ready to use and then pack the bow well. Let the buyer know when it has been shipped. Ship as quickly as possible. If you can’t get the bow out in a reasonable amount of time, let the buyer know that there has been a delay. Most buyers are very understanding.
9. Respect:
Anytime you are buying or selling online there has to be trust and respect by both the buyer and seller. Don’t be greedy, be reasonable. Treat others as you would like to be treated and the experience will be a good one for everyone concerned.
Anytime you are buying or selling online there has to be trust and respect by both the buyer and seller. Don’t be greedy, be reasonable. Treat others as you would like to be treated and the experience will be a good one for everyone concerned.
10. Here is a Great Example of an Excellent Seller; Prettyimptacticals
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Outdoor-Sports-/159043/m.html?_ipg=&_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=prettyimpracticals
This
is an eBay store that has very good quality bows. The prices are a
little higher than some sellers but the prices are very fair for the
quality of the bows. What I love about this store is the photography.
This seller takes plenty of photos of the bow's strengths as well as its flaws. When you buy from this shop you won't have many surprises,
what you see is what you get. The descriptions are short and to the
point, they let the photographs speak for them. Obviously not everyone
can supply such an extensive photographic record of every item, but this
seller does an outstanding job presenting the bow to the buyer. They
don't preach, they don't shout, they don't "sell", they use an economy of
words and offer the buyer all the visual information they need to make a
good decision. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Outdoor-Sports-/159043/m.html?_ipg=&_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=prettyimpracticals
This is a good example of what you should be striving for when you sell your vintage bow.
What is a “RARE” Vintage Bow?
The word “RARE” is one of the most overused words on eBay. Sellers use “RARE” liberally and deceitfully. Typically, there are around 600 vintage Bear Bows on any given day but there may only be one or two Root Bows. Yet Bear dealers insist on using "RARE" to describe their plentiful bows.
What is a rare bow? Just because a seller says an item is
rare, does not make it so. Do your research. The internet is a vast
library, use it wisely. Remember, not everything on the internet is true. Do
your research. Ask smart questions. If it smells fishy then it probably is
rotten. A rare or desirable item really is in the eye of the beholder. I
collect vintage bows. I own, Bear, Hoyt, Groves, York, Ben Pearson, Grimes,
Root, and Shakespeare. I also own Native American bows and Chinese, Mongolian, and Korean Horsebows. I also collect solid fiberglass bows because many are
ambidextrous. I pay what I feel an item is worth to me. I have a unique
perspective on rarity I am right-handed, but I am a left-handed shooter. Some
bows that are common as righties are very rare as lefties; I pay for the value
of a bow as it pertains to me. There is one seller on eBay who writes
2000–3000-word descriptions and his bows are overpriced. People fall for his
spiel, he spins this sale pitch to make a buyer think they are getting a deal
on a bow that is 40% higher than it should be. Research the prices by viewing
past auctions, this will give you an idea of what the final price should be. It
also shows you that the item may or may not be rare. Lastly, be willing to walk
away from an item. Another one will inevitably come your way if you are
patient. Ask Questions. Do your research. Bid and buy wisely.
© Copyright, Larry Vienneau Jr.
All rights reserved.
Vintage bows are great! Really awesome! Thanks for posting!
ReplyDelete-QualityArcheryBows.com
thanks Darcy!!
DeleteGlad I found this blog. I currently own 14 Shakespeare older bows. I love my 50# zebra wood mancos.
ReplyDeleteThanks John, Glad you found it to, if you have any information to share- please do OK?
ReplyDeleteThese tips really help a lot! Choosing or buying vintage bows seems pretty interesting then! Thanks for posting your awesome thoughts!
ReplyDelete-QualityArcheryBows.com
If anyone is restoring a bow and needs decals contact:
ReplyDeleteAl's Decals - acaah@aol.com
he will need a high quality photo and size measurements
I removed my “Award for Worst eBay Seller” He threatened legal action against this blog and anyone who left comments against him. He has also threatened other blogs and archery forums which have discussed his business. He has a statement on one of his eBay items about this blog. He is angry, he is entitled to be. In order to protect me and everyone who posted about him I have removed the thread. He did promise one of friends that in his future dealing with people he will refrain from vulgar rants. Let us hope he keeps this promise.
ReplyDeleteIf you have any future problems with him, please contact eBay, or leave him the appropriate feedback. If you want to amend feedback you left for a seller, go to http://pages.ebay.com/services/forum/feedback.html
click “Follow up to Feedback left”
His reputation is well deserved. Your blog was one of many voices who had problems with him. I found comments about his foul language and arrogance long before you started your blog. On eBay if he doesn't like your question he blocks you. Now he is using threats. You were right about him, he is a bully. I think he was also mad because people published his emails, which showed potential buyer his true colors. He is not a nice person. Sorry you had to remove your warning about him.
Deleteunfortunately I am not confident about his promises. Hope he has a new perspective on how to treat customers though. What I find funny is he has his bow back up to $495 and he refuses to add the correct model number. He is stubborn I guess.
ReplyDeleteSomeone will buy it though. It is ,at the most, a $200 bow with no decals.
good luck to him and to his future customers. hope they are treated better.
thanks for the feedback link, I have to decide if I want to subject myself to his insults or being blocked before I use it.
I am feeling great apprehension after stumbling across this post in my search for information on restoring old recurves. I just purchased an X-21 on ebay but the item description is word for word the same as that given above as the "misleading seller". Although they did have a range of decent shots including the write on detail rather then just the decals. Yet no response to my email about shipping and request for a possible routing number to track. I hop my first gamble in to vintage bows isn't as bad as I now fear it to be.
ReplyDeleteHi Dennis
DeleteI just checked out recent X21 and the seller is one of the folks I found very difficult to get help from, usually no emails at all. I find it suspect that these people never give any information beyond a "disclaimer". On the positive side, I had a friend buy a bow from them and the bow arrive as promised, though the guy never responded to his emails. If you have sent him emails and he refused to respond to your questions before or after the sale, you can use the eBay buyer protection and seek a refund, Hope you don't need to though. That bow looked like a nice one, let me know how it goes, OK?
Dennis I just went to his eBay store and asked a question about one of his bows. This is the response I got:" We're sorry we couldn't find an answer for you. Unfortunately, this seller is not able to respond to your question. We suggest reviewing the item again to see if your answer is in the seller's listing." WOW this guy is really something. Did you get the same response??
Deleteunfortunately I didn't even get that, as it was over the weekend I try to err on the side of patience as people do have lives. I'll try again and see what I get. Hey, thanks for taking the time to look in to that, your feed back does reassure me a bit.
DeleteHi Dennis. I added the email notice I received from him (that he won't answer) to article. I don't understand how eBay can allow him to do this. He is another example of how the 100% feedback is flawed. Give him the rating he deserves. Let me know how it worked out. If you need any help on the bow let me know
DeleteI most certainly will! I am loving the site and all the history that you have worked hard to collect. It makes me even more excited to soon own a small part of that experience.
DeleteThanks Dennis!!
ReplyDeleteLarry-what is the best approach to correct mild limb twist? Thanks
ReplyDeleteDetermination is the best tool. If the limbs are twisted at the riser it is nearly impossible to repair, but that is just my opinion. I start heating with a hair dryer, heat it up and twist against the twist. I take my time and repeat over and over. I found a good forum discussion and I have tried all the suggestions in the posts. http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189843
DeleteJust take your time and help the bow find the correction
nice write thanks
ReplyDeletesee this link
Great information .Pics + discription is everything.Due to poor pics I got a pleasent suprise and the seller lost out.As the sellers knowledge wasn't the best or his photography I got a rare bow at what was a bargain price.There was some beautifull rosewood under the crap cammo paint job.The wife now has a better bow than me.It is still buyer be ware.
ReplyDeleteCheers Richie